Well, we have just returned from a long weekend in Deepest, Darkest Borneo. Actually, most of what we saw wasn't too dark, but we felt very quickly deep when walking in the rain forests.
The nearest corner to here is Kuching in the Malaysian state of Sarawak and it's only just over an hours' flight. We left early last Thursday morning and by the afternoon, covered in several gallons of insect repellent, we were off on a tour (just us, as it turned out) with a guide, to the nearby Orangutan sanctuary for the afternoon feeding session. We were lucky enough to see a couple of the orange guys, as they live wild there and don't always feel the need to show up for breakfast or tea.
We followed this by a drive to the foothills of the mountains "backbone of Borneo" that separate Malaysia from Indonesia. The scenery was spectacular with miles of dense, tropical, virgin, rain forest climbing over the mountains and we eventually arrived at a "long house" community - basically a series of adjoining wooden huts where, as the family expands, they simply add another unit to the end, forming ...well... a long house. We took a tour round and were introduced to a skull in the "trophy room" while learning that the people used to be head hunters. It was pretty old and we were glad to learn that they were apparently talked out of this activity about 130 years ago. Phew!
Friday saw us take trip to a nearby national park (there are so many there) and we trekked up a small mountain to a waterfall. We were again covered in tons of repellent and for once, it wasn't Adam, Hannah or I that were attacked by the smaller wildlife elements. In the damp rain forest environment it was David who was attacked, this time, by leeches. He found at least 4 while the rest of didn't get any. One actually got inside his shoe and had a marvellous feast there without him being aware until he got back to the hotel and removed his shoe to find a very red sock! All very messy. I can't say just how relieved I am that he was the one they found so tasty.
Saturday saw a different park and this time we had to take a boat trip to get there as there are no roads in. Quite exciting whizzing along in a small boat. The scenery was, again, fantastic. This time we saw macaques (a type of monkey), a bearded wild pig and a poisonous pit viper to add to the list of giant ants (more than one inch long), butterflies and enormous millipedes (4 or 5 inches) etc. of the day before. The boatman said he would pick us up from the beach for our return trip rather than the jetty. This all made far more sense when we returned from a 4km trek involving scrambling up rocks and over matted tree roots up the steep sides of another small mountain. The tide was out and we now needed to walk across acres of beach to get to the sea, then wade in (amongst the crabs and a huge starfish) to find our boat. And yes - even in the jungle, Hannah still wears pink!
We had a worrying moment as on our return, crossing the raised boardwalks over the mangrove swamps, we ran into a group of very aggressive macaques guarding a bridge that we needed to cross. Unfortunately for Adam, he happened to be in front. As he went to go up the steps onto the bridge, a large growl was followed by a face between the steps with bared teeth and hideous hissing. He (Adam) backed off pretty fast and it was quite some minutes before the group finally dispersed into the trees and let us pass. By this time, there was a group of 10 or so returning trekkers, so maybe they felt out numbered. We know how the billy goats Gruff felt.
We returned by boat and then public bus. This was a local bus, air conditioning provided by leaving the door open, and it reminded us of our back packing trips BC (Before Children). It was so strange, a step back in time, but with Adam and Hannah sitting there. We'd never imagined doing something like that until they were a few years older.
The state capital, Kuching, is a very nice town and we spent our final day exploring, visiting the museum, Sunday market, local park and strolling by the riverside. We stayed in the "best hotel in town" (we are talking Borneo here, remember) and got a great deal by booking a suite with two extra beds. This was far more economical than two standard rooms, and we benefitted from use of the "executive lounge" including free canapes and drinks in the evening. Some nights, we didn't even need dinner later!
The staff were fantastic. I thoroughly recommend it for anyone who finds themselves going there, and the buffet breakfasts? Well, all I can say is that I didn't know Adam could consume quite so much food in one sitting. We did a buffet dinner once too and Adam ate so much they'll probably be reviewing their buffet policy as a consequence.
Back home for a few days, then off for our next adventure in South East Asia - got to make the most of school holidays whilst we're here!
The nearest corner to here is Kuching in the Malaysian state of Sarawak and it's only just over an hours' flight. We left early last Thursday morning and by the afternoon, covered in several gallons of insect repellent, we were off on a tour (just us, as it turned out) with a guide, to the nearby Orangutan sanctuary for the afternoon feeding session. We were lucky enough to see a couple of the orange guys, as they live wild there and don't always feel the need to show up for breakfast or tea.
We followed this by a drive to the foothills of the mountains "backbone of Borneo" that separate Malaysia from Indonesia. The scenery was spectacular with miles of dense, tropical, virgin, rain forest climbing over the mountains and we eventually arrived at a "long house" community - basically a series of adjoining wooden huts where, as the family expands, they simply add another unit to the end, forming ...well... a long house. We took a tour round and were introduced to a skull in the "trophy room" while learning that the people used to be head hunters. It was pretty old and we were glad to learn that they were apparently talked out of this activity about 130 years ago. Phew!
Friday saw us take trip to a nearby national park (there are so many there) and we trekked up a small mountain to a waterfall. We were again covered in tons of repellent and for once, it wasn't Adam, Hannah or I that were attacked by the smaller wildlife elements. In the damp rain forest environment it was David who was attacked, this time, by leeches. He found at least 4 while the rest of didn't get any. One actually got inside his shoe and had a marvellous feast there without him being aware until he got back to the hotel and removed his shoe to find a very red sock! All very messy. I can't say just how relieved I am that he was the one they found so tasty.
Saturday saw a different park and this time we had to take a boat trip to get there as there are no roads in. Quite exciting whizzing along in a small boat. The scenery was, again, fantastic. This time we saw macaques (a type of monkey), a bearded wild pig and a poisonous pit viper to add to the list of giant ants (more than one inch long), butterflies and enormous millipedes (4 or 5 inches) etc. of the day before. The boatman said he would pick us up from the beach for our return trip rather than the jetty. This all made far more sense when we returned from a 4km trek involving scrambling up rocks and over matted tree roots up the steep sides of another small mountain. The tide was out and we now needed to walk across acres of beach to get to the sea, then wade in (amongst the crabs and a huge starfish) to find our boat. And yes - even in the jungle, Hannah still wears pink!We had a worrying moment as on our return, crossing the raised boardwalks over the mangrove swamps, we ran into a group of very aggressive macaques guarding a bridge that we needed to cross. Unfortunately for Adam, he happened to be in front. As he went to go up the steps onto the bridge, a large growl was followed by a face between the steps with bared teeth and hideous hissing. He (Adam) backed off pretty fast and it was quite some minutes before the group finally dispersed into the trees and let us pass. By this time, there was a group of 10 or so returning trekkers, so maybe they felt out numbered. We know how the billy goats Gruff felt.
We returned by boat and then public bus. This was a local bus, air conditioning provided by leaving the door open, and it reminded us of our back packing trips BC (Before Children). It was so strange, a step back in time, but with Adam and Hannah sitting there. We'd never imagined doing something like that until they were a few years older.
The state capital, Kuching, is a very nice town and we spent our final day exploring, visiting the museum, Sunday market, local park and strolling by the riverside. We stayed in the "best hotel in town" (we are talking Borneo here, remember) and got a great deal by booking a suite with two extra beds. This was far more economical than two standard rooms, and we benefitted from use of the "executive lounge" including free canapes and drinks in the evening. Some nights, we didn't even need dinner later!
The staff were fantastic. I thoroughly recommend it for anyone who finds themselves going there, and the buffet breakfasts? Well, all I can say is that I didn't know Adam could consume quite so much food in one sitting. We did a buffet dinner once too and Adam ate so much they'll probably be reviewing their buffet policy as a consequence.Back home for a few days, then off for our next adventure in South East Asia - got to make the most of school holidays whilst we're here!
4 comments:
Urg - leeches? Urg urg URG! (I'm remembering, with a grin, your reaction to an earthworm. You and a leech would have been something to see.) Monkey Bridge sounds really scary though.
I can't tell you how glad I was when they took a shine to David! Just before we set off, we learnt that there are usually leeches on the path. Kids panicked and I had to be SOOOOOOO brave. If they'd got on me, I could have caused an earthquake with the reverbations of the screams!
So tell me - what of the wildlife indigenous to your next destination?!?
Just about to do another entry, but you know, the usual,but no leeches though!
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